PLENTY OF PRIME RIB AND THEN SOME By David Nicholson Daily Press
WILLIAMSBURG
The Black Angus Grille offers surprises at every turn.
Instead of traditional of the traditional, dimly lit interior that frequently greets you at old-fashioned steak houses, this establishment presents a strikingly handsome alternative.
The elegant interior has been beautifully renovated with etched glass dividers depicting scenes of the Wild West, WHite tablecloths, gleaming wood and plush curtains add to the polished look.
The next surprise comes upon opening the menu. As expected there are several cuts of beef here, from the traditional prime rib to filet mignon, Porterhouse and rib eye steaks. There's also much more, including veal, pork chops and ribs, and full page of seafood, pasta and chicken selections.
The variety is the design of chef Bobby Mageras, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America. He's added some Southwestern touches, such as black bean soup and grilled salmon topped with sun-dried tomato butter.
An international roster of poultry dishes includes Santa Fe Chicken and Teriyaki Chicken. Among the seafood selections are Shrimp Prima vera, Grilled Swordfish and mixed grill of salmon and filet mignon. Most desserts are homemade.
From the list of appetizers, we selected a Cheddar Cheese Soup ($2.50) and Blackened Scallops ($5.25). The soup, a smooth concoction with a rich cheese flavor, was the better of the two.
The scallops were tasty, though not blackened as we had hoped for. Instead of being seared with a peppery coating, they were lightly sauteed and served with a spicy sauce made with roasted yellow peppers. A small loaf of bread was the perfect accompaniment to these openers.
Entrees followed the restaurant's theme of unfussy dishes that are expertly prepared.
The small cut of prime rib ($16.95) was tender, juicy and served medium rare just as requested. The restaurant also offers a larger cut priced at $18.95.
The prime rib was served with delicious roasted potatoes and a wonderful mixed vegetable side dish of broccoli, roasted red pepper, squash and zucchini.
There are some excellent choices for non-meat lovers, such as angel hair pasta with tomatoes ($10.95), which also came with the mixed vegetable side dish. A large helping of pasta was tossed with fresh tomatoes, herbs and grated cheese in an olive oil dressing.
The homemade desserts are worth saving room for. Chocolate Ecstasy Cake ($3.50) accurately described this multi-layered chocolate cake with chocolate frosting and a topping of whipped cream. Served in a puddle of raspberry sauce, it was dense, rich and heavenly.
We gave high marks to the tart, smooth Key Lime Pie ($3.50) as well. The raspberry sauce served with this pie made for an interesting combination of flavors.
Our server was helpful and attentive, though service was a bit slow, especially since there were only a few other diners in the restaurant that evening.
A thoughtful wine list and children's menu offer additional reasons to visit here. From our initial impression to the excellent menu, the Prime Rib House delivered surprises and a terrific meal.
David Nicholson can be reached at 247-4794.
THE BLACK ANGUS GRILLE
Address: 1433 Richmond Road, Williamsburg Phone: 757-229-6823 Specialties: Specializes in steaks, but offers seafood and other items. Hours: 4:30-10p.m. Sunday-Friday and 4:30-11 p.m. Saturday. Prices: Appetizers, $2.25-$6.50, entrees, $9.95-$19.95, desserts, $3.50-$3.95. Dress: Informal. Reservations: Recommended Payment: Credit cards, no checks. Alcoholic beverages: Full bar. Non-smoking section: Yes. Wheelchair accessibility: Parking spaces marked, dining room and restrooms can accommodate wheelchairs. Star Rating: Food: Atmosphere: Service:
